We arrived in Johannesburg—called “Joburg” or “Jozi” for short—just after sundown. Our flight ended with a bit of turbulence as we made our decent into South Africa’s largest city amidst a thunderstorm. But we ended our Friday the 13th travels safe and sound at Gandhi’s Backpackers, named after the main house’s most famous former-resident. For our first morning in Joburg, our staff organized groceries of eggs and bacon for breakfast (which a few of the earlier-birds in our group were kind enough to prepare for those of us that slept in) as well as sandwiches to pack for lunch and get us started off right for a day of tours.
The first part of our day was spent at Constitution Hill, today the site of South Africa’s Constitutional Court (the highest court of the judiciary), but formerly known as “the Fort,” one of South Africa’s most infamous prisons. The Fort had been around since 1892, but as resistance movements grew throughout the 1900s, the prison became known as a place for transitory holding of many political prisoners while they awaited sentencing, including Gandhi and later Nelson Mandela. The Fort was known for its brutal treatment of prisoners, especially in Section Four, where Black male inmates were detained. (www.constitutionhill.org.za)
As we were guided through the remnants of Section Four, we were told about the humiliating and dehumanizing practices endured by its prisoners, the vicious beatings given by wardens as punishment, and the abhorrent living conditions that led to malnourishment and the spread of disease. Video testimonials of former prisoners were playing inside one of the old cells. One of the men in the video stated simply, “this is not a place for human beings.”
Among the exhibitions of the weapons used by wardens to beat and torture prisoners and the line of isolation cells where some inmates were left to die from their injuries, there was also a small exhibit called “resistance and resilience.” This space focused on the few ways that prisoners managed to guard what dignity and morale they could sustain. The most prominent piece displayed here was the “blanket sculpture.” Our guide explained that prisoners would hold regular competitions to see who could come up with the best sculpture made out of a group-cell’s collective blankets to pass the time after lock-up hours. This particular exhibition was a welcome reminder of human resiliency amidst institutionalized depravity.
Today the country’s Constitutional Court shares the old foundation of the prison and the Fort’s remnants have been converted into a museum with tours and the exhibits described above. Now a national heritage site, the entire complex is riddled with symbolism representing South Africa’s confrontation of its past, its project of reconciliation, and its promise to uphold human rights as mandated by its new constitution—considered one of the most progressive constitutions in the world.
To end our guided tour we were invited to enter the constitutional court itself, currently not in session for the holiday season. The court building is constructed from bricks that once made up the holding blocks of the prison. While a large beaded new South African flag hangs from the wall at the left side of the court room, a window on the right-hand side makes visible the old prison staircase still standing just outside, ensuring that the past is not forgotten when working toward the future.
Before leaving Constitution Hill, I asked our guide if the recently proposed “Protection of State Information Bill”—often referred to as “the Secrecy Bill” by its many critics—was being scheduled for the Constitutional Court’s next session (as I have been a little behind on current events since this trip got started). He replied that he believed it was. For more information on this current issue, its controversy, and an example of a present challenge being posed to the highest court in the country, check out http://mg.co.za/article/2011-11-23-secrecy-bill-black-tuesday-not-the-end-of-road/ and of course there is always Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Protection_of_State_Information_Bill
After a look at other sections of the Fort-turned-museum, we embarked for our second museum of the day—but not before a short break in a nearby park for lunch where Nico, our driver while in Joburg, asked Jan if he could share a bit of his own experience of growing up during apartheid with our group. Hearing about Nico’s hardships as a young student in Mpumalanga province, about how he became conscientized to politics and the oppression facing non-white South Africans, and his gratitude to those who came before him, seemed to set an appropriate mood of respectful attention and contemplation among the group as we headed toward the Apartheid Museum.
It is hard to say much about the Apartheid Museum because there is simply too much to be said. After paying our entry fee we were given tickets that designated each of us as either ‘white’ or ‘non-white.’ While the only difference this ticket really made for our experience of the museum was in determining which entrance we were to take, the discomfort at having been suddenly and arbitrarily categorized was immediately noticeable. The museum was essentially a long and winding path (a long walk, perhaps) that led us through multimedia exhibits, chronologically displayed so as to direct us through apartheid’s turbulent history. Newspaper articles, political posters, artifacts, and information placards led the way, but my favorite part of this museum are the archival news broadcasts and video footage of riots, protests, interviews, and political speeches that one could pause for a moment and watch. In many ways, the Apartheid Museum was a review of the first half of our pre-departure course, and it seemed a fitting reminder to have toward the end of our trip.
We ended the day on a lighter note, however, at Moyo Restaurant in Zoo Lake. The long anticipated all-you-can-eat-buffet had sparked the idea for an eating competition, and our trip coordinator, Andrew, came out victorious… though Chun, Brittany, and Ciara showed exceptional effort as well. Our meal was topped off with live music by a wonderful guitarist/singer who serenaded our table with songs by Bob Marley, Tracy Chapman, John Legend, and more.
All this to report for our Saturday in Joburg and I even skipped the helicopter and boat rides some of us managed to fit in between tours and dinner! All in all it was an insightful, interesting, BUSY, and exciting day.
Jess
Tour of the old Fort Prison (now a museum) - the Isolation Cells of Section Four
A blanket sculpture displayed in an old group cell - part of the "resistance and resiliency" exhibit.
The new Constitutional Court built from the bricks of the former prison.
Nikki, our trip coordinator Andrew, and Shevin show off their face paint at Moyo Restuarant.
Our driver, Nico, and Mariana at Moyo.
Tour of the old Fort Prison (now a museum) - the Isolation Cells of Section Four
A blanket sculpture displayed in an old group cell - part of the "resistance and resiliency" exhibit.
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